Customer representatives are very helpful. I love dress and it’s exactly what I was expecting. Worth was a celebrated Parisian couture dressmaker.
He was born in 1825 in Bourne, Lincolnshire, and started working at age of 12 in a draper’s shop in London.
Eight years later he moved to Paris, where he opened his own premises in He was soon patronised by Empress Eugenie and her influence was instrumental to his success. As from other great Parisian fashion houses, made to measure clothes from Worth were an important symbol of social and financial advancement. Anyways, moustaches and ‘sideburns’ were popular.
Swept to tosides, hair was worn quite long.
With rounded chests and flared ‘frockcoats’ that gave them a rather hourglass figure inspired by Prince Albert, very fashionable men sported low, tightly cinched waists.
With high upstanding collars and neckties tied around them, they also wore tight trousers and waistcoats. DressDesigner unknownAbout 1880Great BritainSatin, trimmed with applied beading, chenille tassels and needle lace, lined with cotton, reinforced with whalebone, edged with brush braid, machine and hand sewnMuseum no. Given by Mrs. Of course, while in line with todonor, that said, this dress was worn by her mother on her wedding day. Therefore, by 1880 skirt was quite slender in profile, often with an overskirt swathed in front, gathered over bustle at back and falling into a train. Horizontal bands of applied frills and ruching on skirt are typical decoration for this period. It could’ve been her ‘going away’ ensemble, or it could’ve been dress she wore for actual ceremony.
Bodice is tightfitting and designed to suggest a jacket.
For her wedding, a woman invariably wore a coloured dress that would serve as a ‘best dress’ for years to come.
Daywear with long sleeves and high necks was acceptable style, because weddings in those days ok place in tomorning. For a morning walk in Park in summer straw hat, or low hat and tweed suit, are as correct as blackish coat and silk hat. Is must be remembered that a straw hat or low hat can not be worn with a grey coat apart from high silk hat, before hereafter it will have been a social crime for any man pretending to fashionable dress. It was only last summer that Londoners began to wear straw hats with any freedom.
Straw hat was at first only accepted for holidays and summer sports.
In 1894 NYC Herald of Fashion observed.
By 1890s it had become popular for city wear. Fashions in hats and headwear changed more quickly than other items of clothing. New styles of hats arrived annually, while a dress would’ve been expected to last at least a decade. Personal accounts for this period show women buying new ribbons, laces, fabrics and trimmings to update their headwear. With all that said… Rather than a completely new shape, latest fashion in bonnets usually featured latest fabrics and trimmings. Even if it meant recovering an old one themselves, most ’19thcentury’ women expected a brand new hat any year. Just keep reading! They are plain in front, but puffed out on either side so as to remind one hoops strongly or paniers of last century’. Have merely changed their shape.
In the course of the 1860s fashionable skirt became flatter in front with fullness receding wards toback.
They are ample and flowing, contrary to much speculation. That’s a fact, it’s true.
It’s an interesting fact that the striped greenish skirt in this example is composed of eight gores that significantly reduce quantity of bulky pleating and gathering at waist characterising earlier styles. They have been no longer bell shaped and by 1868 they curved out behind forming a kind of bustle, women still wore hooped petticoats to give desired silhouette. With intention to fall gracefully over these new structures, skirts tended to be gored, I’m quite sure, that’s constructed with triangular panels rather than straight widths of fabric. Therefore this coat is reputed to was worn by William Pierson Johnes, a linen merchant of NYC. Basically, this coat is an example of men’s formal daywear from about The sleeves are long and tight, collar is wide, and front has adeep fasteningin order to show off towaistcoat. Consequently, cutaway coat was still worn, even if at this date frockcoat was gaining in popularity as formal daywear. Therefore the jacket of this evening suit still has to’button stand’ around outer edge of tolapels.
Which was cut with tails, back of dinner jacket was cut whole, unlike evening dress suit.
In 1888 dinner jacket was introduced for more informal evening wear.
That’s a feature that disappeared in to1890s. While affecting details like length and width of lapels or fullness of totrousers, any stylistic changes were very subtle. Now pay attention please. Since so evening dress has altered very little. Essentially, dressDesigner unknownAbout 1897FranceWool, trimmed with ribbon, braid and ‘machine made’ lace, bodice lined with cottonMuseum no. Furthermore, Queen showed examples with epaulettes, blouse fronts and pointed belts. You see, this dress was worn by mother of donor and is said to been bought in Paris.
Another magazine illustrated a similar example.
Boleros and figure moulding, flared skirts were very fashionable at totime.
Newest bell skirts are absolutely without fullness at totop….It fits closely over hips and begins to form a series of fluted pleats a little above toknee’. It was probably ‘readymade’. With a velvet collar, edges bound with wool braid; buttons covered in sateen; partially lined with twilled silk. Morning coatDesigner ‘unknown1870 5Great’ BritainFine wool. Anyways, it was usually singlebreasted and was known as to’cutaway’, as fronts sloped away elegantly to broad skirts behind. By 1850s it was shaped halfway between a riding coat and a frock coat. Now look, the morning coat was originally a singlebreasted tailcoat, worn in early 19th century, as well as known as riding coat. Promenade dress Designer unknown18557Great BritainSilk plush trimmed with silk fringe and braid, lined with silk and whaleboneMuseum no. Luxurious velvet dresses embellished with fringe trimmings were highly fashionable in the course of the 1850s. Sounds familiardoesn’t it? In 1857 to’Illustrated London News’ announced. That said, fringes also simulated flounces and made skirts look even wider, when applied in rows.
Whenever flaring out over tohips, in this example bodice is made with a basque, that was a separate extension below towaist.
With totop tier extending from waistband as far as fifth row of fringe, skirt is composed of two layers.
Then the bottom tier is attached to a taffeta underskirt. Basically, this accentuates flounced effect of fringe and helps to distribute weight of heavy skirt over to’domeshaped’ crinoline cage which should have been worn underneath. DressDesigner unknownGreat BritainAbout 1862Silk trimmed with silk braid and beads, lined with glazed cotton, edged with brush braid, ‘handsewnGiven’ by Miss Edith WestbrookMuseum no. Did you know that the puffed epaulettes at totop of sleeves indicate historical influences, particularly 16th century. Narrow at towrist, it has only a slightly pointed waist and a sleeve wide at toelbow. It’s a well this dress illustrates style of early 1860s. They should have been seen in early English portraits. By to1860s, skirts had reached their fullest point. They have been worn over wire ‘cage crinolines’, that gave maximum volume with minimum weight. Aesthetic dress was popular in 1880s and 1890s, particularly amongst artistic and literary circles.Those who supported it repudiated tight corsetry and cumbersome petticoats in favour of looser, less restrictive clothes.In this photograph, Ellen Terry ain’t wearing a bustle despite the fact that exaggerated bustle pads were wornfor quite a few to1880s.
While showing her in fashionable dress, that’s a music sheet cover with a portrait of young Queen Victoria.
Her hair is parted in centre and looped down over toears.
Her dress is offtoshoulder, and her bodiceis long andpointed at tofront.The skirt is madewithtiers and frills of lace. Now this portrait was first seen at Photographic Society of London exhibition held at South Kensington Museum in February and March 1858.This was first photographic exhibition held in any museum globally. Usually, this elegant bustle dress displays a dense pattern of violets springing from a bed of vine leaves. Accordingly the design should have been woven by a powered jacquard loom and is an example of good commercially produced fabric.
Therefore this day dress illustrates smoother silhouette that began to appear in late 1880s, with its minimal bustle and strong emphasis on tosleeves. It’s said to are worn by Cara Leland Huttleston Rogers of NYC, later Lady Fairhaven. DressDesigner unknownAbout 1872Great BritainCotton, trimmed with silk braid, fastened with bone buttonsGiven by Miss Julia Reckitt and Messrs and ReckittMuseum no. That’s a jaunty, sensible woman’s outfit of early 1870s designed for boating or seaside walking. On p of that, a hemline just at ankle indicates a garment intended for walking outdoors. Style of dress is inspired by colours and stripes of sailors’ uniforms. A well-known fact that is. With an overskirt in front and a bustle worn underneath at toback, despite its practical use, ensemble still incorporates details of fashionable dress. You see, it’s easily washed and dried, So it’s created out of cotton. Older students usually dress casually throughout the day -jeans and T shirts are fine -and more smartly if you’re going out in toevening, younger students a completely new style called sack coat became popular, High fastening and tight fitting frock coats were also very fashionable. With hairstyles characterised by large muttonchop ‘side burns’ and moustaches, men wore matching coats, waistcoats and trousers, after style set by Prince Albert. Let me tell you something. Shirts had high upstanding collars and were tied at neck with large bowties. Trend ran parallel with Arts and Crafts Movement and advocated a radically new approach to dress in an effort to free women from corsetry.
Now this dress has lots of features associated with dress reform trend of late 19th century. Pair of bootsAnton Capek, Coulson ‘1895 1915’ Vienna, London Glacé kid leather lined in cotton sateen and yellowish silk satin, buttonsMuseum no. Slender ankle, curved Louis heel, and high, buttoned leg were very fashionable in The soft dark brown leather with its shiny glacé finish highlights skilful stitching and throughout the last decade of 18th century. Ok, and now one of most important parts. It signified a move away from what were considered to be extravagant excesses of late eighteenth century wards a simpler, purer style of dress and footwear influenced by classical antiquity. And so it’s elaborately trimmed.Many high end dressmakers of late 19th century emulated work of House of Worth, that produced most luxurious gowns created from bold French silks, combined with ingenious design uches in embroidery, lace and chiffon.
William Henry Lake Price, himself a painter and printmaker as well as a photographer, has portrayed his fellow artist Richard Ansdell. Now this particular model is marked on inside with patent number The patent is for elastic size regulator which is fitted inside and should alter inside of hat to shape of tohead. EnglandFlannel’ trimmed with mohair, lined with sateenMuseum no. Normally, riding habit jacketMessrs. Generally, given by Honourable Mrs. Nevertheless, redfern and Co. By 1880s their dress was so similar that similar to this example, is called a ‘carte de visite’.
While originating from visiting card, that was introduced in France in Cartes were mass produced, and those like Mayall’s pictures of royal couple were ordered by hundreds of thousands, so this was a photographic format. It was fashionable to collect ‘cartes de visite’ and compile them in albums. Afternoon dressDesigner unknown18725Great BritainCorded silk, trimmed with corded silk, lined with cotton, faced with silk, edged with brush braid, machine and hand sewnMuseum no. Whenever indicating work of a professional dressmaker, with cleanly cut and finished appliqué and seams, therefore this garment is well made. You should take this seriously. Influence of masculine tailoring can be seen in cuffs and bodice revers of this woman’s afternoon dress. With all decoration depending on application of a darker dark blue silk, overall effect is quite severe. Fashion is moving away from fussier trimmings of early 1870s. Now regarding aforementioned fact… Lined with glazed cotton and whaleboneMuseum no, Day dress Designer unknown18689Great BritainSilk and wool faced with silk, trimmed with silk fringe.
By the way, the crinoline went out of fashion quite dramatically about The lengths of skirt that used to fall over crinoline were gathered up at back over a bustle.
This ensemble characterises new style of fashionable women’s dress.
Inside of skirt has a series of tapes, that enable it to be tied up for walking outdoors. It has an over skirt and bodice now extends below towaist. And so it’s a personal keepsake and document of a wealthy family of to1890s. It’s a well this family photograph album contains single and group portraits and depictions of sports and pastimes that should have amused family, friends and visitors. Quite a few Victorian and Edwardian family photograph albums similar to these were acquired by VA in 1950s and 60s to show examples of dress of that period. Fact, his clothing is typical of ‘Artistic’ dress, fashionable with artists and intellectuals of totime.Artistic dress is characterised by loosely fitting clothes, created from plain, muted fabrics coloured with natural dyes, that they wore in deliberate contrast to tight and starched rigidity of Victorian formal dress.
So this dress is characteristic of fashionable stylesfrom early 1840s.
Waist is lengthened in front with a point both front and back.
Did you know that the elaborate applied decorations of 1830s are now no longer fashionable. Neckline is wide with a deep collar or ‘bertha’. While short ‘over sleeves’ recall elaborate sleeves of to1830s, tolong, tight sleeves are typical of to1840s. Now look. Except for a braid edging on tocollar, satin of this dress is left quite plain. Normally, many opera boots had bows attached, and uppers were often made of different textures of leather to give appearance of a dress shoe worn over a stocking. Some even had silk stocking legs laid over leather to give even more of a stocking like effect. Woman in this photograph sports a hairstyle that was very fashionable in to1850s. However, her hair is parted in tomiddle, swept down and looped loosely around toears. She wears a distinctly 1860s crinoline skirt.Until about 1868 fashion was for extremely full skirts, held up by cage crinoline petticoats created from cane, metal or whalebone hoops. For example, hollyer was photographer of choice for artistic set of late 19th century.
His ‘Portraits of Many Persons of Note’ fills three volumes with nearly 200 portraits and comprises a pictorial Who’s Who of late Victorian and Edwardian celebrities.
One of a kind known female painters of Victorian era, now this portrait is of Louise Jopling Rowe massive crinoline skirts and tight corsetry.At turn of century she served as ‘vicepresident’ of Healthy and Artistic Dress Union, that championed this less restrictive mode of dress.
Besides, the silhouette is very simple and unfussy, and dress is loosely corseted or forget it -a distinctely unusual feature in the course of the 1890s. Of course dress she is wearing here has a few features of artistic dress. It shows off waistcoat underneath since Here jacket is semi fitted without shaping in front or fastenings. Really like this one, some featured jackets and skirts in contrasting checks. Others, were made of identical material throughout. Style was not necessarily sacrificed for function as elegant, ‘close fitting’ designs graced pages of tailoring journals. Did you know that the pearly nes of buttons complement soft colour of cloth and ruffled frill on stand collar adds a delicate touch. Vests depending on toman’s waistcoat were another popular feature.
Lined with blackish satinMuseum no, Evening dress suit Morris CoAbout 1885LondonWool barathea with satinbuttons and ribbed silk lapels.
This meant that he sometimes had to change his outfits six or seven times in space of a day.
It was important at this period to be properly dressed in public and private. Certainly, a fashionable man needed clothes to suit all occasions, both work and leisure. So that’s an example of a formal evening dress which would have been worn to smart dinners, theatre and similar fashionable evening entertainments. By the way, the Hawarden family album indicates that man is Donald Cameron of Lochiel. Besides, the woman in this photograph is either Lady Hawarden herself or her sister Anne. She is holding a photograph of bare trees. Did you know that the waist, emphasised, isn’t small as massive proportions of skirt make some of body appear dainty. That said, with extra volume and length at toback, skirt is held out by a large cage crinoline petticoat giving skirt a full bell shape. Actually, waist is set quite high and totorso is a pronounced hourglass shape because of corset commonly worn by women of every class. Yes, that’s right! This dress is typical of a very fashionable early 1860s shape.
Display shoes and boots were stored or sold, when their style went out of fashion and they’ve been no longer useful to shops. Now this pair was purchased in 1923 for 8 shillings and sixpence. Dozens of photographs in it are printed on platinum paper, that was introduced in Such a photograph was expensive to produce and enjoyed for its delicate nal gradations and matt surface. Therefore this photograph is taken from a family photograph album. Oftentimes bodice is seamed and gored for a moulded fit. Normally, with tapes for adjustment, inside of skirt is hooped at toback, to create bustle effect. It extends into drapes at hips and merges with totrain, that falls in inverted pleats from seams of tobodice. Elegant cut, combined with rich materials and embroidery, makes for a flattering silhouette. For example, it moved away from exaggerated padding provided by bustle to sheathlike dresses that emphasised natural shapely curves of tobody.
Throughout the late 1870s fashionable female silhouette changed.
Their hair is piled high on p of their headsand their elaborately trimmed hats sit high and straight.
While contrasting with massive skirts and bustles of previous decades, their skirts are long but moulded at hips in a ‘Aline’ shape. These details reveal skill of eminent couturiers similar to Madame Vignon, maker of this gown, who was also patronised by fashionable Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon II. So, while delicate puffs of tulle inserted into sleeves soften impact of dramatic colour, ellen Terry Satin bows and pleated biascut trimmings complement ribbed silk of this dress perfectly. Hollyer was photographer of choice for artistic set of late 19th century.
His Portraits of Many Persons of Note fills three volumes with nearly 200 portraits and comprises a pictorial Who’s Who of late Victorian and Edwardian celebrities.
Beneath all these layers and decorative trimmings That’s a fact, it’s a wonder that a woman could discreetly find her watch pocket which was often concealed in waistband of her skirt.
Some loopedup styles were given nostalgic names like à la Watteau and ‘Marie Antoinette dress’ or were raised with cords and ribbon bows in style of tooriginals. Therefore this dress follows vogue for historical revival with its separate draped overskirt loosely based on18th century polonaise gowns. Resulting puffs and draperies were copiously trimmed with silk fringe, brocaded satin braid, beads, marabou feathers, garlands and applied silk flowers.
With that said, this elegant pair of blue and almost white low heeled shoes illustrates how sandal form evolved.The satin upper with square e and throat, decorative rosette and elastic ties are all features reminiscent of dainty flat shoes of early nineteenth century. With addition of a small heel and some striped decoration form is updated to something more in keeping with modern tastes. Popularity of young Queen Victoria coincided with a period when large numbers of illustrated music sheets were being published. Anyways, after her marriage in 1840, there were many with images of Queen and, of Prince Albert, either as portraits or at particular events. Actually the sewing machine itself had only become widely available from late 1850s. Beeton also included paper patterns, a brand new phenomenon that, combined with fashion plates, ensured magazine appealed particularly to increasing numbers of those who owned a domestic sewing machine. Therefore, in 1860 publisher of this magazine, toEnglishwoman’s Domestic Magazine, Samuel Beeton, began including ‘hand coloured’ fashion plates just like this one. So this magazine’s wide distribution ensured an awareness of French fashions among a wider section of society.
Now look, the fitted look was also achieved by cutting bodice with five seams at back and inserting front darts that curved in at waist and out again. As in this example, bodice was often fastened at centre front or with a concealed hook and eye closure on one side. Afternoon dress Halling, Pearce ‘Stone1879 81LondonSatin’, trimmed with figured silk, chenille tassels and machine made lace, lined with silk and cotton, reinforced with whaleboneMuseum no. Did you know that the high neckline and elbow length sleeves indicate that this dress was for formal afternoon wear, hitherto train was found only on evening dress. Have you heard of something like this before? By 1880 women’s fashions were becoming very elaborate. Now please pay attention. Actually the dress bears label of tomaker.
With a lot of fabrics, now this ensemble demonstrates to‘over upholstered’ look, rows of tassels and lace embellishment, all used on one outfit.
Halling, Pearce and Stone.
Following example set by Charles Worth in Paris, dressmakers had begun to identify clothes they made. Oftentimes this can be seen in professionally made clothing from late 1870s onward. Whenever extending into a point below towaistline, bodice is in to‘cuirasse’ style. Then the dark red boots, that are of ribbed silk, come up above ankle and have a ‘military’ style heel covered in silk to match touppers.
They have lacing at back and are trimmed at totop with bobbin lace and ribbons.
One gentlemen’s etiquette book, Manners for Men, by Mrs Humphry, published in 1897, writes that.
It was important to be dressed appropriately for tooccasion. Conventions in dress applied to informal as well as more formal wear. His ‘Portraits of Many Persons of Note’ fills three volumes with nearly 200 portraits and comprises a pictorial Who’s Who of late Victorian and Edwardian celebrities. Hinton was a photographer and member of Linked Ring, a brotherhood of photographers committed to excellence in all styles of photography which flourished between 1892 and 1909. Hollyer was photographer of choice for artistic set of late 19th century. For much of first half of 19th century flat shoes were popular amongst fashionable women.
Day dressDesigner unknownAbout 1862Great BritainCorded silk with glass buttons and velvetMuseum no. Given by Dr. They did not become commercially available until late 1850s, various inventions of machines for sewing seams occurred in to1840s. Actually the first machine for embroidery was invented in France. Machine embroidery developed for men’s waistcoats and women’s dresses throughout 1840s and 1850s. For instance, it was a couple of decades before sewing machine was widely used in homes and by professional dressmakers. Hand sewn, with that said, this dress is ‘machine embroidered’. You see, examples were first brought to Britain in to1820s. Both girls are wearing full skirts and both wear their hair pulled back and worn in a low bun or chignon.
Importantly their dresses feature pagoda sleeves, that were particularly fashionable in 1850s and 1860s.
This photographic study imitates composition of Raphael’s famous painting of Virgin Mary and Christ Child, that is now in Dresden.
It’s useful for dating purposes as it shows fashions typical of to1860s. Needless to say, pagoda sleeves are set low to create a fashionable sloping line from shoulder to arm, and sleeve itself flares outwards into a wide cuff. Then, whenever reflecting contemporary popularity of crinolines, dresses have fashionable wide skirts. Dress on right is mauve, a brand new colour at totime. With that said, this plate shows day dresses. Introduced in 1856, and generally created from hoops of spring steel suspended on strips of material, these allowed skirts to expand to proportions beyond those possible using only layers of petticoats. Therefore this illustration type isknown as a ‘fashion plate’, and featured in magazines to advertise and promote latest styles. Oftentimes photograph, portrait of Constance LyttonFrederick Hollyer 1899Great BritainPlatinum printMuseum no.
Now this dress also has majority of features associated with dress reform trend of late 19th century, thedress worn in this photograph is distinctly 1890s in style.The sitter wears a high lace collar with leg of mutton sleeves. Actually the trend ran parallel with Arts and Crafts Movement and advocated a radically new approach to dress in an effort to free women from corsetry. Bequeathed by Mrs. Bracelet with portrait miniaturesPierre Jules ChaiseAbout 1850ParisEnamelled gold, rose and brilliantcut diamonds, ivory and mother of pearlMuseum no. You should take this seriously. Pandeli Ralli and Mrs. Ralli. Of course mr. Ralli appears as a client in ledgers of Royal Goldsmith’s RS Garrard in He bought a diamond head ornament for 200 and a matching bracelet for 45. Also, this miniature portraitis part of a bracelet thatwas made to take portraits of Mr. In this image, toQueen’sskirt is tiered for fullness, that was fashionable in 1850s and very early 1860s.
Her bodice is buttoned high at neck and trimmed with a lace collar, ‘withlowset’ and sloping shoulders.
Her hair is parted in middle and scraped back into loops and buns at nape of toneck.Prince Albert wears a highstarched collar with a neck tie tied in a knot around it.His hair and moustache was copied by many men at this time.
So it’s held out in a pronounced bell shape by layers of petticoats or a steel cage crinoline. It was known by French term ‘à disposition’. So it is an example of a fashionable summer day dress of late 1850s. Typical of period are full ‘pagoda’ sleeves and bodice gathered from shoulders into lower front waist. Fabric was printed with a decorative border expressly for use as tiers of a dress. Tiered skirts were popular in to1850s. Aesthetic dress was popular in 1880s and 1890s, particularly within artistic and literary circles.Those who supported it repudiated tight corsetry and cumbersome petticoats in favour ofless restrictive clothing. They did, however, favour luxurious trimmings similar to lace, as shown here. Fact, women wore crinoline petticoats created from steel hoops under their dresses to give them this distinctive shape. Wide skirts were a focal feature of fashion during this period.
Lightweight dress fabrics similar to silk and muslin were popular as they draped gracefully over crinoline cage. By 1865 fullness of skirt had receded wards back of garment creating a flatter front. Elderly widows generally wore it for much longer, if not quite a bit of their lives, A widow was expected to conform to strict rules governing her clothes for at least two years after death of her husband, that included wearing of a widow’s lace cap and a blackish cape as seen here.A younger woman might discard her mourning garb after two years. With that said, this portrait of Lady Duckworth shows her in Victorian mourning dress. Read our p tips in Guide to secondhand shopping.
Loads of us are aware that there are an awful lot of secondhand and vintage shops, as well as ‘high street’ shops.
Most UK wns and cities have a large range of shops selling clothes to suit all styles and budgets.
There are perfect for bargainhunting and are often found in student areas. Of course, photographic study of Isabella Grace, Clementia and Elphinstone Agnes Maude on terraceViscountess Clementia HawardenLondonAbout 1863 4Albumen print from wet collodion negativeMuseum no. Therefore this study of Lady Hawarden’s three daughters shows them dressed in typical 1860s crinoline skirts. Basically the little girl on right is also wearing a bell shaped skirt, though much shorter, as was customary for children. However, her hair is typical of decade -parted in middle and scraped back into loops or buns at nape of toneck. Notice that shoulders of her dress are sloping, and lowset. It’s a well eldest daughter, seated, reveals part of her underskirt, though underneath this should have been a few layers more of crinoline petticoats or a steel cage crinoline to give skirt its distinctively 1860s bell shape.
Curved construction of heels on this dark brown velvet pair was influenced by heel shapes from previous century.
Diamanté buckle is also a reference to extravagant styles of 18th century although here And so it’s smaller and less showy than its predecessors.
It was known as to’Louis’ after famous French kings of to1700s. While sporting a rather masculine tailored jacket with exaggerated leg of mutton sleeves, she is shown here in fashionable mid 1890s dress. Therefore a 1979Bequeathed by Mr. With collar and cuffs embroidered with silk cord, coat and skirtJacques Doucet About 1894ParisLinen, elastic stays attached to inside of skirt to control tofullness, hand and machine sewnMuseum no. With that said, this practical style suited more emancipated lifestyles women were consequently leading.
They borrowed details from men’s dress, similar to wide lapels and exterior pockets. In the course of the 1890s,women’s tailored suits were very popular. Besides, the sleeves are long with a high pleated shoulder. With back flared and arranged in deep pleats, skirt has a slightly draped front. However, bodice is waist length, panelled with satin and edged with blackish moiré ribbon. Dress fastens at shoulder over a boned, light green silk bodice lining. Collar and cuffs are faced with gold beaded tulle. Eventually, skirt may was altered and have lost a side panel. Therefore, Surely it’s trimmed at back with a made up bow with long pendant ends. It’s mounted over a dark green silk petticoat, and boned and taped to a bustle shape at toback. Although, tiered ‘capejackets’ were fashionable, as were paisley patterned shawls. Just think for a moment. Deep bonnets were worn and hair was swept into buns or side coils from a centre parting.
They often featured deep flounces or tiers.
Long bloomers and pantaloons trimmed with lace were popular.
In to1850s, women’s skirts were domed and bellshaped, supported by crinoline petticoats. Anyways, day dress Designer unknownAbout 1866Great BritainSilk trimmed with bugle beads and silk fringe, lined with cotton and whaleboneMuseum no. With bulk of volume at toback, contours of crinoline have altered from a bell shape to a profile that is fairly flat in front. Anyway, this dress is a typical example of women’s fashionable day wear from mid 1860s. Known toEnglishwoman’s Domestic Magazine’ of 1865 reported change as follows. Dresses incline a lot more to Princess Shape. Also, except for a bugle bead and silk fringe which decorates tobodice, all widths are gored. Dark blue and blackish are left unadorned, edge of collar and tooversleeves.
Published by Beeton, London1865Paris and LondonLithograph, coloured by hand, ink and watercolour on paperMuseum no, Fashion plate from toEnglishwoman’s Domestic MagazineEngraved by Jules David, printed by Lamoureux De Beauvais.
Wards end of 1860s skirts should start reducing again, and fabric would’ve been draped up into a bustle.
France dominated world of fashion during this period and French fashion plates were an important source of information on latest styles and colours. Whenever reflecting contemporary popularity of crinolines, dresses have fashionable wide skirts. Seriously. Introduced in 1856, and generally created out of hoops of spring steel suspended on strips of material, these allowed skirts to expand to enormous proportions not possible with layers of petticoats. Besides, this fashion plate shows examples of ball dresses. Remember, their stylish boots made good display pieces for retailers.
Others were richly decorated and made in bright colours, therefore this example is elegantly restrained.
These boots advertised that pquality fashionable footwear going to be had from shops that displayed them.
Viennese and Belgian bootmakers produced plenty of to most striking footwear of early 20th century. So jacket, trousers and waistcoat that comprised suit will be of one colour and were therefore known as ‘dittos’. With all that said… So this style continued until 20th century and became identified as city business man’s suit of blackish coat, striped trousers and bowler hat. Of course, alternatively, a contrasting waistcoat and trousers were often worn to add colour and variety to tooutfit. That’s an excellent example of a doublebreasted frock coat. It became so popular that it began to rival frock coat for day and business wear. Morning coat was worn in the course of the daytime, as name suggests. There is more info about this stuff here. Manners for Men, by Mrs Humphry.’ For morning wear morningcoat or jacket of tweed suit is correct. I’m sure that the collars were often faced with velvet and edges were bound, corded or stitched.
Morning coats were usually made out of dark colours, and fabrics included worsteds, diagonals, hopsack, ribbed meltons and beavers.
Print is unusual in showing a dancer of 1840s in a fashionable dress rather than a ballet costume.
Her dress is typical of todecade, withlow sloping shoulders, a long and narrow pointed waist, and a voluminous ‘bellshaped’ skirt. It’s not easy to know what clothes to pack, you was kept for their decorative quality or for sentimental reasons when they went out of fashion. In 19th century waistcoats tended to be amid to more elaborate and colourful pieces of male wardrobe, that is partly why they survive in relativelypretty large numbers. Floral designs like this were fashionable in 1840s and 1850s. In this example a delicate pattern of vine leaves and speedwell is jacquard woven in blueish and cream giving quite a few textural effects. Certainly, French influence was as long as stylish Empress Eugenie who had married French emperor, Napoleon II, in She was probably responsible for introduction of shorter skirt which led to a greater emphasis on stockings and shoes. Ok, and now one of most important parts. Frivolous boots of silk and silk satin, some with high heels, were imported into England from France in 1860s and 1870s. These French styles were also imitated by English shoemakers. They’ve been albumen prints created from glass negatives, attached to stiff card backing printed with tophotographer’s name. On p of portraits, their subjects included scenic views, urist attractions and works of art. Photography was a novel and exciting development in Victorian days, and many people had studio photographs takenfor ‘cartes de visite’ which should be presented when visiting friends, as introductions or with messages if person was out.
Cartes de visite’, size of formal visiting cards, were patented in 1854 and produced in their millions throughout the 1860s when it became fashionable to collect them. They’ve been superseded in late 1870s by larger and sturdier ‘cabinet cards’ whose popularity waned in turn throughout the 1890s in favour of postcards and studio portraits. Wedding dressDesigner unknown1865EnglandSilk satin, trimmed with Honiton appliqué lace, machine net and bobbin lace, ‘handsewnMuseum’ no. Bride’s dress was a focal point just as it’s today. By 1800 it had become usual for her to wear white or cream. In 1865 cage crinolines protruded out more from behind and were flatter in front in contrast to bellshaped crinolines of to1850s. Now this was a popular colour as it implied purity, cleanliness and social refinement. Now look. I am sure that the wide skirt of dress would have been supported underneath by a cage crinoline. With insertion and trimmings of cream silk gauze, day dress Designer unknown1892 4France or ItalyPrinted silk, hem bound with pink velvet, lined with silk, whalebone supports in tobodice, and metal hook and eye fasteningsMuseum no. Notice that with a pointed waist, it has a fitted bodice, and a frilled collar and cuffs trimmed with gauze and a machineembroidered border.
Now this dress should have been worn for fashionable day wear. I know that the leg of mutton sleeves are long, full, gathered at shoulders and gauged at insides of toelbows. By the way, the ferns added by photogram techniqueMuseum no, Photograph Kate Dore with frame of plantsJulia Margaret Cameron About 1864EnglandAlbumen print. Certainly, this print is a photogram, a technique of making a picture without a camera or lens. Consequently, Victorians were fond of collecting and cultivating ferns, that were used as a decorative motif from 1850s to end of tocentury. In this example, ferns were placed in contact with glass negative prior to printingout in sunlight. Young girls generally wore their hair down, it was customary for grown women to wear their hair up. Photograms are made by placing objects on p of a piece of photographic paper and after all exposing composition to light. I’m sure you heard about this. It was only in 1920s that women started to cut their hair short and so up until that point most girls and women had very long hair, that was often given fashionable waves or ringlets and parted in tomiddle.
Curling tendrils separated by undulating lines and a lattice work of simulated trimming adorn this blockprinted wool day dress. Basically the delicate scrolling shapes of tendrils reflects to’mid Victorian’ interest in 18th century Rococo design which incorporated scrolling naturalistic motifs and a lively anticipation of movement. That said, this portrait of Princess Louise, Marchioness of Lorne and Duchess of Argyll, illustrates formal evening dress from around 1890.Her waist is severely corseted and she wears a bustle to give a pronounced, hourglass shape.The volume of skirt is pulled wards back and drapes over tobustle.Her hair is piled on p of her head in tight curls, fashionable throughout the 1890s. Now this photograph is a formal military portrait of British army officer Field Marshal Garnet Joseph Wolseley, 1st Viscount Wolseley KP GCB OM GCMG VD personal computer. Then again, this dress has a foundation skirt of light grey denim that is cut straight in front and gathered and pleated at back to follow lines of separate bustle worn underneath.
Whenever accentuating closely fitted lines of bodice and drapery on front of toskirt, floral design complements construction of this dress.
Bustles were often a separate structure attached around waist and included crinolettes made from steel half hoops, ‘down filled’ pads and wire mesh structures.
By 1885 bustle was often incorporated into back of foundation skirt itself in type of a small pad attached to waistband and horizontal rows of steel which may be pulled into a curved shape. It also flows in sweeping folds over tobustle, that by mid1880s jutted out almost at right angles from behind. Besides, the sack coat would become increasingly popular over following decades, worn most oftenfor leisure activities or informal occasions. This is where it starts getting very entertaining, right? He wears a newly fashionable sack coat, a slightly looser fittingcoat thantomore tailored frock coat.
With striped velvetMuseum no, dressSara Mayer Morhanger ‘1889 92ParisFigured’ silk. Velvet ribbon, machine lace.
With an emphasised hourglass waist created by a rigid whalebone corset, body itself is curvy.
Therefore the sleeves sit close to line of tobody, as opposed to 1890s when they have been exaggerated into a ‘leg of mutton’ shape. Whenever upstanding collar, that is a distinctive and fashionable feature of 1880s daywear, therefore this dress features a high. Day dressDesigner unknownAbout 1870Great BritainSilk, trimmed with silk ribbon and silk satin, lined with glazed linen, machine and hand sewnGiven by Miss WilsonMuseum no. By 1870 circumference of skirt had reduced considerably from its proportions in to’mid1860s’. Fullness remained at toback, where it was swathed over a bustle and tied with tapes on inside to allow skirt to drape in a becoming fashion. It’s an interesting fact that the unfitted jacket and fairly loosefitting skirt suggest that ensemble therefore this ensemble illustrates todecorations, especially fringing and applied ruffles, that were popular at totime.
This dye created a beautiful lustrous colour that Perkin patented and which became known as ‘aniline violet’ or ‘mauveine’.
Dried and digested with spirits of wine gave a mauve dye’, in order intention to better remember the reaction he tested procedure using aniline and created a crude grey product that ‘when purified. Therefore this dress is typical of women’s fashionsfrom mid 1840s. Tartan fabrics were very fashionable in to1840s, thanks partly to continuing popularity of Walter Scott’s historical novels, set in Scotland. He produced a reddish powder instead of colourless quinine, while experimenting with a synthetic formula to replace natural ‘antimalarial’ drug quinine.
Queen Victoria, who discovered first famous artificial colour by accident in 1856 when he was a student at Royal College of Chemistry in London.
It has long tight sleeves, a high round neck, and a long pointed waistline.
Surely it’s made of silk satin in a tartan pattern. Although, weddings were to most festive social occasions. Not everyone, however, wore whitish. They gave families chance to show off their wealth and even less welloff couples would make an effort to dress appropriately. These could thence be worn for Sunday best long after tomarriage. They would not have looked out of place as wedding dresses in 19th century were designed in line with current fashions.
Widows, older brides and less welloff often preferred more practical coloured gowns.
Skirts were worn in a fulllength, simple ‘Aline’.
Generally worn squarely on p of tohead, hats were small or wide with a bunch of trimming. Wide shoulders were fashionable and horizontal decoration on bodice further exaggerated toline. Loads of info can be found easily online. In early part of todecade, women wore tight bodices with high collars and narrow sleeves, much as they had done in previous decade. Masculine styles and tailoring were increasingly popular, and women sometimes sported a shirt collar and tie, particularly when playing golf or out walking.
Hair was worn high on p of tohead, in tight curls. From about 1893 however, sleeves started expanding into a leg of mutton shape, that was tight at lower arm and puffed out at upper arm. Additionally, by about 1860 chemical aniline dyes were widely available. Then again, a lot of colours they provided were rather gaudy, like this bright light red. Known with material draped up to create a bustle, from end of 1850s up until about 1868 8. Cane or whalebone hoops.Towards end of 1860s skirt got narrower. Lots of information can be found easily on tointernet. Woman shown we have wearing a fashionably voluminous skirt. Jacques Doucet Charles Frederick Worth About 1881ParisSilk satin, trimmed with pearl embroidery and machine made lace, lined with almost white silk, bodice supported with whalebone struts, machine and hand sewnGiven by Mrs MortonMuseum no.
So this silk satin evening dress, designed by Charles Frederick Worth, represents height of couture fashion in early 1880s.
It was worn by Mrs Granville Alexander, a daughter of to sewing machine pioneer, Isaac Singer.
Accordingly the donor was her greatniece. Did you know that the closely fitting bodice of dark greenish velvet is embellished with an iridescent beaded panel. One train side is faced with a triangular panel of gold and white figured silk. Conforming to toLady’s World of ‘Skirts now never have two sides alike’. Accordingly the bustle is no longer predominant and emphasis is focused on contrasting fabrics and decorative effects. That said, this evening dress shows how fashion was changing in late 1880s. On p of this, separate skirt is made of shot cream silk, trimmed with iridescent bead motifs over which machine made lace is asymmetrically draped. Just think for a moment. So a side table at left balances a desk at toright.
That said, this photograph gives a decent idea of Lady Hawarden’s studio and way she used it.
Here her daughter Clementina poses beside a mirror.
Movable screen is placed behind it, across opening into next room. Then the figure of young girl is partially balanced and echoed by camera reflected in mirror and embroidery resting on table beside it. It was situated on second floor of her house at 5 Princes Gardens in South Kensington area of London. Then, he devoted one day a week to sitters from artistic and literary circles. Was a leading specialist in photographic reproduction of paintings.
Mary Frances Andrews had married Walter Crane, topainter, illustrator, designer, writer and teacher, in She is shown here in a high waisted, uncorseted dress that was derived from classical costume.
It was of a kind promoted in artistic social circles as ‘Rational Dress’.
His atmospheric photographs contribute considerably to our understanding of toperiod. Notice that UK is a multicultural place and it’s common for people to wear clothing associated with their culture and religion, let’s say a head scarf, kippah, turban, sari or long skirt. It’s a well in major wns and cities around the planet, particularly Asian and Middle Eastern clothing. With machine embroidered panels and silk collar, dressDesigner unknownAbout 1888Great BritainSatin, cuffs and front with a velvet ‘warp figured’ stripeMuseum no. Now look, the Queen magazine of August 1888 illustrated a very similar ‘Directoire’ reception dress, and in November of that year commented.
Therefore this trained overdress is styled to suggest a man’s coat of Directoire period in France. Did you know that the sides of coat hang down plain and straight. Skirt is mounted on glazed cotton and over a boned foundation. So, tocollar, cuffs and front of separate skirt are made out of silk with a velvet ‘warpfigured’ stripe. Dress fastens with a ‘halfbelt’ and buckle. So this dress is made of satin. Generally, bodice fronts are faced with ‘machine embroidered’ panels and trimmed with Japonaiserie buttons of cast metal. Portrait of Violet Lindsay, Duchess of RutlandFrederickHollyer About 1890EnglandPlatinum printMuseum no. So it is a portrait of Violet Lindsay Manners, Duchess of Rutland. Now look. While draping clothes with simple silhouettes in natural fabrics and colours, she was a popular artist, and a champion of ‘Aesthetic’ dress -a dress movement that eschewed restrictive corsetry and artificial bustles for loose. Whenever focusing eye on fabric pattern or richness of material as well as fashionable silhouette, quite a few dresses of this date were decorated with trimmings of self fabric. While its lighter horizontal stripe complements fullness of toskirt, vertical emphasis of pattern suits fashionable shaping of bodice which is pleated over bust into a V shaped point at towaist. As a result, on this dress, bias cut strips of fabric decorate bellshaped ends of tosleeves, and toneckline, shoulder seams, sleeve head and hem of bodice are carefully finished with self piping.
Summer dressDesigner unknownAbout 1885BristolWhite cotton, trimmed with Bedfordshire Maltese lace, machine stitched and hand finishedMuseum no. 1927Given by Mrs. It has fashionable bustle shape and copious trimmings but is comparatively hard wearing, light and easy to wear. It’s said to was made in 1885 in Clifton, a district of Bristol in West of England, and worn in Burma. Unlike silk satin dresses that were fashionable during this period, it should also been easy to wash. That said, this light summer dress should have been ideal for a hot climate. Dresses with asymmetrical drapes and inserted waistcoat effects were in fashion from The West End Gazette for February 1885 illustrated a similar example.
It’s a well-known fact that the boater was worn by all social ranks and had no ‘class distinction’.
If a man was to be a success in society he had to wear it for correct occasion, as another extract from Manners for Men shows.
He is condemned more universally than if he had committed some crime, Therefore in case he goes to a garden party in a frock coat and a straw hat. Of that he should be certain, So in case he commits flagrant should not be invited out very much. With folded wings, collar is typically high.The waistcoat is buttoned high on tochest. Did you know that the sitter in this portrait sports a fourinhand Ascot tie, very fashionable in the course of the 1880s and 1890s.The Ascot tie is created from a narrow neck band with a wide cravat style front, neatly folded and pinned with a tie pin.
It was generally worn for morning dress, and is now commonly worn for weddings.
They used natural and artistic materials and often included hand embroidered decoration inspired by countryside and wild or garden flowers.
Did you know that the clothes were homemade or produced in commercial studios. On p of this, it sometimes featured on dresses designed and sold by London firm of Liberty Co, who sold gowns in Arts and Crafts style. Smocking they have been famous for their sporting costumes, smart tailormade dresses and coats suited to everyday fashionable wear. Queen magazine of 10 May 1884 commented on some particularly striking examples including, ‘The Hungarian. Yes, that’s right! May did not have long to enjoy wearing this jacket as she died soon after it was made. Did you know that the tailoring firm Redfern and Co, made this riding jacket for May Primrose Littledale. Polish, of royal blueish faced cloth. Throughout the mid 1880s Redfern incorporated braiding into loads of their designs for walking outfits and outdoor jackets.
Dress is very similar to a fragmentary one from quite similar source, now in collection at Norwich Castle Museum and marked ‘Laferrière’, a popular Parisian couturier.
Striped jackets were originally worn for cricket, tennis and rowing and became fashionable for seaside wear in the course of the 1880s.
I know that the infiltration of sporting dress into informal styles of clothing shows how social conventions were relaxing in late 19th century. It also has wide lapels and is buttoned very low on tochest. With that said, this example has large wide sleeves, as was fashionable for toperiod. Gentleman’s Magazine of Fashion Designer unknown1890sGreat BritainCream wool with blueish pinstripe, handand machine sewnMuseum no. After 1875 coats tended to be buttoned much higher. Lightcoloured’ suits just like this became popular from to1890s. Eventually, matching coats, trousers and waistcoats, known as ‘dittos’, in pinstriped flannel were accepted dress for summer sports and holidays. By the way, the outfit was often completed with a straw boater.
So here’s the question. Worried about looking good while keeping warm?
For more ideas, we ok to streets of Manchester for style tips from some current students!
Have a look at the photos here. I am sure that the dresses are full length but quite slim. Now let me tell you something. They wear high collars with puffed, leg of mutton sleeves. Seriously. Dress worn by ladies in this photograph is typical of to1890s.
So it is a portrait of Maharaja Duleep Singh, photographed by London firm of Horne Thornthwaite around 1850.He is dressed and bearded conforming to fashionable formal English style.He wears a dark double breasted frock coat over a high buttoned light waistcoat.
This necktie style was newly fashionable in to1850s.
With a necktie tied intodistinctive ”four in hand” style wherethecorners of a folded kerchief create pointed wings, his collars are starched and upstanding. Besides, the p hat was worn by upper classes for formal occasions. For awhile and twisted at toends. Furthermore, sitter sports a high collar folded over into wings and a high buttoned waistcoat. By end of to1840s, wide neckline had closed up to a high, round opening. That said, sleeves are beginning to widen at wrist into a slight bell shape.
Now this dress was probably made in to’mid1840s’ and after that altered about five years later to accommodate a change in style.
Sleeves have had gores inserted at wrist to bring them up to date with new fashion.
While ending in a point below towaistline, for awhile and narrow. Therefore this particular example is made of silk satin, striped in a complex arrangement of violet, crimson, magenta, greyish and white. Engraving of outdoor dress designed by Maison Worth. Remember, The Lady’s Newspaper 17 August 1895Paris Museum no, Sandoz Derbier. Silhouette emphasises a voluminous and horizontal collar line. Whenever illustrating stylish outdoor dresses, designed at Maison Worth, Paris was published by The Queen, The Lady’s Newspaper, on 17 August Both women wear fashionable ideal of mid 1890s dress, that said, this engraving. For instance, growth of sleeve was balanced by an increase in size of toskirt.
In about 1892, flared skirts were introduced. They grew to their widest extent in about 1895, with tosleeve, and had names like ‘tobell’, ‘tofan’ and ‘toumbrella skirt’. That said, this ensemble is typical of fashionable women’s daywear of early 1870s. Whenever accentuating bustle that was now being worn underneath, for the most part there’s an overskirt over back of todress. Also, silk has a figured pattern of blackish and almost white leaves on a speckled ground. Although, open sleeves of kind seen here were very fashionable in early 1870s. Dress is trimmed with silk braid. So, fashion magazine ‘The Queen’ shows a dress with similar squared edge sleeve in a huge issue for August 1870. So this magazine’s wide distribution ensured an awareness of French fashions among a wider section of society. Beeton also included paper patterns, a brand new phenomenon that, combined with fashion plates, ensured magazine a particular appeal among increasing numbers of owners of domestic sewing machine. In 1860 publisher of this magazine, Samuel Beeton, first began including hand coloured fashion plates by Jules David. I know that the sewing machine itself had only become widely available since late 1850s. You may need to wear protective glasses and a whitish lab coat, So if you are in a science laboratory.
Check with your course provider what you need and if you have to buy them yourself. Back draped over a bustle, and on evening dresses extended into a train. Fact, worn for dinner or toopera, elbow length sleeves and square neckline show that it was probably not a ball gown. On p of that, this ensemble characterises fashionable evening wear for women in late 1870s. As to follow contour of dress underneath, their shape had slimmed down considerably after to1860s, cloaks and mantles were still worn for warmth outdoors. Those worn with evening dress were often trimmed with feathers, braid and beaded embroidery. Notice, by late 1870s profile of skirt had narrowed considerably. Normally, a key motif was boteh or pine cone, what we know day as topaisley. Originally imported from India in late 18th century, British manufacturers were making woven and printed versions by early 19th century, depending on Indian designs. So this example was printed by company Swaislands of Crayford in Kent, and registered in Patent Office between July 1845 and April The bodice of dress has vertical slits fastened with buttons on either side of centre front.
That said, this design was popular as a dress fabric.
This indicates that owner wore it while nursing her children.
Besides, the popularity of cashmere shawls reached its peak from 1840s to to1860s. They will have resembled a dress shoe when worn under trousers, nevertheless they were shaped like a boot. It is opera boots were also known as ‘Dress Wellingtons’ and were often worn when going out to dinner, totheatre, opera and similar social evening occasions. For example, alternatively, a contrasting waistcoat and trousers were often worn to add colour and variety to tooutfit. Formal gentleman’s daywear of later 19th century was usually of grey or blueblack wool. Jacket, trousers and waistcoat that comprised suit should be of one colour and were hereafter known as ‘dittos’. On p of this, so that’s an excellent example of a double breasted frock coat. Now this style continued until 20th century and became identified as city business man’s suit of grey coat, striped trousers and bowler hat.
Quite a few clothes shops offer student discounts with a valid National Union of Students card or International Student Identity card. Now this suit is said to was worn by todonor’s father, for awhile, at his wedding in Dublin on 29 June 1871. Evening dressDesigner ‘unknown18768Great’ BritainSilk satin, trimmed with silk ribbon and machinemade lace, lined with cotton, reinforced with whalebone, machine and hand sewnGiven by Mrs Thérèse HornerMuseum no. Overskirt of satin swathes front of todress, Tiers of machine made lace adorn skirt and bodice. Therefore this was a brand new style, known as a ‘cuirasse’ bodice, that appeared in fashion magazines about 1875 and remained fashionable through to1880s. You should take it into account. Did you know that the bodice extends into a point below waistline in front and back. Now this ensemble characterises fashionable evening wear for women in late 1870s. Notice that elbow length sleeves and square neckline show that it was probably a dinner dress rather than ball gown. That said, this means you’ll get more outfits out of fewer items -saving valuable luggage space!
Whenever layering -make sure you for a while sleeved’ Tshirts, jumpers and a coat, you can put them gether in different ways.
You’ll notice many students shed layers as they step into a warm lecture hall from cold outside.
Our p tip? With metal buttons, and whalebone stripsMuseum no, Day dress Designer unknownAbout 1858Great BritainMoiré silk trimmed with chenille and lined with silk. Besides, although its pristine condition suggests it been worn, I know it’s beautifully constructed in latest style as will befit a young fashionable woman. Had Miss Gilbert worn this dress, almost white ‘engageantes’, or undersleeves tacked to armholes would have covered her lower arms and a lace collar created out of moiré silk, it has a lustrous rippled sheen accentuated by rich Prussian blueish dye, applied chenille flowers and sparkling metal buttons.
This ‘eyecatching’ day dress formed for a whileing to Miss Janet Gilbert.
Whenever emphasising their width, box pleated trimmings for ages bottom edge and seams of wide pagoda sleeves. Graceful movements and a perfect silhouette were promoted by introduction of spring steeled hooped petticoats in 1856, often referred to as crinolines. Essentially, they have been also hailed as a blessing, even though frequently ridiculed in press for their ‘cage like’ structure and size. Besides, effective, lightweight, economical and comfortable, they ensured women could wear dresses like that one without having to contend with layers of hot and heavy petticoats.
Now this example is a variation of morning coat.
It was introduced in 1870 and was known as to’University’ or ‘Angle fronted’ coat.
While exposing much of towaistcoat, fronts were cut at an acute angle from second button. Shoes with high heels were almost ‘non existent’ in women’s fashions in the course of the first part of 19th century.Instead simple flat satin slippers or ‘sandals’ with a bow or rosette at throat and ribbons or elastic loops to fasten them round ankle were all torage. By to1850’s heel had begun to make a comeback. It is to
Thus, other side of London Square onto which balcony looked are out of focus.
While youngest child looks gravely at camera clutching an owl, eldest of girls formally greets topuppy, emblem of wisdom. Of course they could after that, be personalised with rosettes and akin decorative embellishments if desired.These were simply tacked on to a piece of gauze which was thence stitched on at throat over totop of existing standard bow which was already in place. Consequently, thin leather sole and delicate silk and satin uppers were relativelypretty simple and cheap to produce. Basically, by middle of 19th century slippers or ‘sandal shoes’ were still widespread although by 1850s they have been worn largely only for formal wear in blackish or almost white. So this pair of shoes is a typical example of that style. Queen Victoria helped popularise fashion for whitish when she got married in She set a royal precedent by choosing pretty easy ivory satin dress which was very much in fashions of today.